Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Glissade: Mount Rainier-August 1974

Greg and Rob had gathered a group of 12 friends together to climb Mt. Rainier. It was August 1974.  We had been divided up into three rope teams with four people on a team. It was decided that if one person on a rope team could not advance then the entire team would return to Paradise. The weather was near perfect.

L to R: Carol, Mary Lou, Rob, Tom (back), Mary S. (from Denver), Peter, Greg, Gene.

Gene from Chicago is outfitted for anything Mt. Rainier may offer.

Left to right front row: Carol, Mary, Rob, Gene, Mary S., & Peter
Back row: Mary Lou, Dave, John, Tom, Alan, & Greg.

We spend the first day on the Nisqually Glacier practicing crevasse rescue. 


Gene works his way down into the crevasse.

My turn to go into the crevasse. I was little nervous about seeking out a hazard.

Going down seemed harder than climbing out. I have no idea what my left leg is doing.


I remember it was intensely cold at the bottom of the crevasse and all I could think about was if the snow I was on would hold my weight. 

My prusiks are in order and my feet are secured in the stirups so I can "prusik" out of the crevasse. Once I got to the lip, things became more difficult.

Gene looks up at me from his crevasse. Look at that nose protection.


The Nisqually Glacier spreads out and across Mt. Rainier.

We rope up into our teams and make our way across the glacier after crevasse rescue practice.
Notice the side by side rope team as they safely avoid crevasses.


Mary in the front.

As I was photographing the group, Mary photographed me.
L to R: Dave, Rob, Mary S., Mary & unknown person under the umbrella.

The next day we pack up and head up the Muir snowfield to Camp Muir.
Peter is standing in the center.

 A few miles later we rest at Pebble Creek.

Outside the Muir hut: Mary Lou, Mary S., Unknown, Carol, & Mary.

Tom and Mary listen to the group conversing.



Rob finds a great seat to prepare his dinner. That is Carol behind him.

Mount St. Helens pre-eruption pokes through the clouds.

 Mt. Adams rises in the distance on the left and I believe that is Mount Hood in the center.

Pre-eruption Mt. St. Helens stands above the clouds south of Camp Muir.

The kitchen setting at Camp Muir.
L to R: Gene, Peter, Mary, & Mary S.

Mount St. Helens is in the distance. What a great view from the kitchen.
L to R: Mary, Gene, Dave, Peter, Mary Lou, & Greg


L to R: Dave, Mary, Peter, & Greg

Mary Lou, Peter, Greg, Gene, Dave, & Mary rest after dinner.

As we rope up and begin our trek at 1:00 am, we can see the headlamps of climbing teams ahead of us.

This is the view of the north edge of the Cowlitz Gap. We were about to cross the Ingraham Glacier.

Little Tahoma peak in the morning light.

The route is commonly referred to as the Cow Trail.

Mt. St. Helens and Mount Hood in the early morning light.




I believe that is Disappointment Cleaver above us.

This is when rope teams begin to falter.

Carol and Mary S. ponder their next move.

After a rest and some food we start climbing again.

All four rope teams had members decide they could not continue. One rope team was recreated from four who felt they could summit that day. The rest of us reassembled teams and started the climb down.


At Camp Muir, Greg entertains the idea of hiking down Muir Snowfield and veering east to the snow caves.




In the foreground, Peter looks down the Muir snowfield.


Mary Lou, Gene, John, Peter rest during the descent on the Muir snowfield.

We headed east across the snowfield toward the ice caves.

Mary S. brags about the height of the mountains near her home town of Denver.

Rest, food, and discussions along the way to the caves.


Mary rests as she soaks in the sun.

The ice caves are spectacular.


We venture well into the caves.


Mary drinks from the ceiling of the cave. This is one of my all time favorite photographs.

Once back at Paradise we wait for the successful rope team to arrive.
L to R: Alan, Carol, Tom and Rob

These four were strong climbers that day.
L to R: Alan, Rob, Tom, and Carol.

Those of us that did not summit felt disappointment but we were very proud of the four that did summit.

In the parking lot we give our final goodbyes to each individual.

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